Tuesday, November 03, 2009
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| Richard Shelton finds out how fashion show Moda keeps up with the catwalk. |
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“Brands are coming back to the idea of a domestic show and it’s up to us to put together what works for them.”
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As a trade show for the fashion industry Moda has to move with the times. But there’s more to keeping ahead of the game than the latest designs. Mirroring the changes in fashion retail is the challenge for show organiser and industry publisher ITE Moda.
Moda is the umbrella title for a range of niche areas, namely womenswear, menswear, footwear, accessories and the debut beach area. The show runs twice a year to help drive the buying seasons in February and August and attracts around 12,000 buyers viewing more than 1,000 collections. At a time when fashion is under pressure, the show is maintaining exhibitor numbers across four NEC halls and reported a two per cent visitor increase for the August 2009 event.
Staying close to market change is key for Moda. The show serves fashion’s independent retail sector which has seen shops moving away from lower end product as pile ‘em high operators dominate cheap clothing. And, as independent retailers turn towards higher end brands so does Moda, with names such as John Smedley, Joules and Fly London joining the show’s regulars.
Nick Cook, event director of the menswear and footwear sections, says that such fashionable brands are proving popular among the sector: “These are the brands the independent sector wants as it moves towards higher value product. The lower end of fashion retail has been highly squeezed and independents are doing well with brands that people can’t get elsewhere.”
If that’s the key to success for independent retailers, it’s also serving the show organiser well. Although the show is static in terms of size, Cook believes his team is delivering a better quality event. “We’ve gained exhibitors who two years ago would have said ‘We don’t need to come to a show; everyone knows who we are’. No one feels that confident anymore.”
The first-day attendance was the highest in the show’s eight year history, a feat that Cook describes as unbelievable in the current climate. “People feel they’ve got to get out and make sure they’re stocking the right product.”
While new collections are undoubtedly the key content driver across the floor, a business-focused seminar programme, various catwalk shows and a number of networking opportunities are all part of the mix.
It’s an interesting quirk of the market that throughout the past decade, whether in times of boom or bust, the number of independent fashion retailers has remained constant says Cook. Yet the Moda vehicle has seen dramatic change in the way the market operates and has had to adapt accordingly.
“Brands that show with us want to be part of a large show but at the same time want it tailored to their needs,” says Cook.
Consequently Moda’s marketing has to reach a range of interests. Some buyers cross over different sections of the show, while others specialise in one area. Everyone wants to see new product but the long servers also form an important core. Initiatives include niche focus areas and a range of different shell scheme options that support stylish presentation of a product particularly sensitive to image.
Cook explains: “It’s about creating a style of exhibition that works for people in this climate. Brands are coming back to the idea of a domestic show and it’s up to us to put together what works for them.”
Moda Platform is an initiative that groups together new and niche exhibitors in an open booth-style feature. Cook believes this style of feature allows companies to test the show without having to take large space just to prove their market strength. But does the emphasis work against the more established exhibitor?
“In many ways the launch of Moda Platform has been as much of a benefit to mainstream exhibitors as to the brands. Many brands outside of it understand the reasons why we wouldn’t place them within Moda Platform but have written business with retailers visiting the show primarily for that feature.
“The challenge has been to re-shape what we do so the exhibition remains relevant to brands that are already at the show and attracts other brands we want to see here. People expect a bit more and so we’ve had to change the floor plans, offer smaller stands etc,” says Cook.
ITE Moda worked with stand contractor Early Action Group to present five styles of shell scheme across the show to allow brands to do more with their space. Cook says: “Stands are more open and all lighting has been upgraded to give a retail feel. It’s been quite a big investment, but names that would previously have taken space-only are taking shell scheme because it can now present a good brand image.”
As for the future the aspiration is to continue refining the presentation and adding new niche areas. While Cook is looking for further development in 2010, it will be another challenging year. “Independent retailers are positive but it’s still tough. We have to adapt the concept of the show to the market we’re dealing with. For us, the challenge is not assuming that people are going to come just because you’re the biggest show. Historically in fashion this is what happened, with shows flourishing for a while and then tailing off.
“We have to keep developing to be in tune with the market, which for us has meant a shift in the type of brand for which the show is now relevant. Moda is a big show but it cannot be a one-size-fits-all show. It has to be tailored.”
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Wednesday, March 25, 2009
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Wednesday, January 14, 2009
In its 55th year, and 5th year at Excel, the London International Boat Show housed over 500 exhibitors, ranging from the 11.5 million pound dream boats and chartered weekend escapes to the appropriate sailing attire. More
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The Queen's Christmas Speech
Monday, December 22, 2008
The Queen's Christmas Speech according to the Barbican's Anthony Hyde More
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